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The Sun Also Rises

  • Writer: Dad
    Dad
  • May 5, 2018
  • 1 min read

Today was day three of a pilgrim's walk on ancient paths towards Santiago de Compostela. The 13.1 miles followed along the Arga river through pastoral fields, farms, and towns in Navarre.


For me it was also a chance to relive more Hemingway. We were retracing Jake and Bill's path back from the fishing trip in Burguete to join their friends at the Fiesta of San Femin in Pamplona, and to the debauchery and self destruction of the post-war "lost generation". I share his love for this town and region. Coming here previously is what drew me to him in the first place. (Fist bump to Buen Camino subscriber Greg Schulze for the assist.)


Late in life Hemingway lamented that the massive popularity of The Sun Also Rises ruined San Fermin, it's corrida de toros, and to a degree Pamplona itself. I'm certain had he staved off depression long enough to see City Slickers, it would've done him in.


...but I think he was wrong. Pamplona is an amazing, vibrant, authentic Spanish town and it was great to return with Ben, on foot from the countryside. We pintxo hopped down the cobblestone streets and enjoyed the sights and sounds of northern Spain.


"I can't stand it to think my life is going so fast and I'm not really living it."

- Ernest Hemingway, The Sun Also Rises


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A tribute to Papa outside the Plaza de Toros in Pamplona

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A better look at the "Rabies Bridge" leaving Zubiri. For more info on this bridge see yesterday's comments section

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The Arga. We spent most of the day walking along it.

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Fin del Camino. "End of the road". RIP Rosanna. And Elsa (11/15/17).

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Many bridges across the Arga, including Puente de los Bandidos (Bandits' Bridge). Kind of speaks for itself.

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Outside Pamplona. Even in the suburbs of a city The Way is well marked.

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Ben entering Pamplona

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Pintxos!

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Journal time. Buen Camino.


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5 Comments


Dad
Dad
May 06, 2018

The thing I look forward to most in the morning is eating. We’re burning 2,000 calories a day backpacking. We’re always hungry. I also wake up excited to see what The Way brings today, and spend more time talking with Ben.

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Dad
Dad
May 06, 2018

Fun questions!


There is all manner of trail on The Way. I posted that photo as that is my favorite kind of trail. I’ll try to post more examples in days ahead.


We had a tremendous set of pinxtos last night. I think he liked the blood sausage and egg best. I’ll go with the mushroom and peppers (calamari a close second).

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Andrea Rogers
Andrea Rogers
May 06, 2018

I noticed in that picture of Ben that he was walking along a really narrow trail, is most of the walk like that until you get near a town? Have you and Ben found a favorite Pintxo yet? At this point in the journey, since you're still near the beginning, what do you look forward to when you wake up in the morning?


Oh, and I agree that the Arga is beautiful. But my favorite photo in this post is the last one.....


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Dad
Dad
May 05, 2018

Oh man Brian, this journey was made for you! Welcome to Buen Camino. Your questions:


I don't think either of us plan to publish these journals. For me, that would be embarrassing. Maybe I'll fly to PHX, sit by your pool, and read you some.


Impact on the body

Dad: It's daunting to think this is just day three, because I already hurt. My core is fine, my legs are sore but that's manageable. I think the quads are the worst and that's actually from the downhill sections. The primary concern, what you really need to take care of, is the feet. More on that in the next question.

Ben: My legs and feet hurt by the end of the…


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bubbacmoutain
bubbacmoutain
May 05, 2018

Are you going to publish your journal when you finish? I think that would be a fun read. Also, what's been the impact on your body so far? What's taken the most beating and how are you managing it? Do you find yourself wishing you trained more? Good job, guys! I'm about as envious as one can be. :)

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Voyager, c’est aller de soi à soi en passant par les autres

“It's a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don't keep your feet, there's no knowing where you might be swept off to.”

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