Memoria del Futuro

We got a sunny and chilly 35°F start this morning out of Santo Domingo. It was an interesting scene walking through town, a mix of fellow pilgrims pulling packs over warm walking gear, and disheveled all night partiers staggering home in the daylight. I had woken at 4am and could still hear the live music coming from the main stage. We felt for the shambling young guys smoking a morning butt and trying to get out of the light, until we had our first breakfast next to four older guys back slapping, cracking fresh beers with their eggs in the cafe. Those guys were pros. (Fist bump to Buen Camino subscriber and Rainier & Eggs fan Peter Nichols.)

There was rain in the afternoon forecast so we set out to beat it, and had a chilly and sunny 14.2 mile walk to Belorado. Looking ahead at Belorado, especially leaving charming and interesting Najera and Santo Domingo, we hadn't planned for a very interesting day on The Way.

We left town over the bridge our hero Domingo had built for people like us (modernized in the 1,000 years since). Another of his miracles is said to have happened here, when he resurrected an unlucky pilgrim who had been trampled by an oxcart. The bridge crosses the river Oja, which is where this region and its delicious primary export get its name: the "Rio Oja".

Sadly we're leaving La Rioja today. We passed into our next region, Spain's largest autonomous community, Castilla y León. It was surprising how immediately the vineyards ended and corn fields began as we crossed this border. Less surprising when you looked closely, the red rocky soil was gone, the hilly pastures turned to vast fields of green crops. The skies stayed clear and the temperature never topped 50°F. Perfect weather for a day of walking.

As stated, we didn't expect much out of the tiny pilgrim outpost of Belorado. We bee-lined for the albergue Ben had picked out, and were greeted warmly by our tremendous host Paul. Paul speaks excellent English ("It is what I studied at University"), his beautiful wife Belmalyn speaks very little. That didn't keep me from having a broken conversation with her about our mutual love of Nicaragua. I've included a little about this couple in the photos below. These guys reset our expectations of Belorado and we had a wonderful time in their adopted little town, which lives up to their description.

Buen Camino

Into Castilla y León

Santo Domingo's bridge over the Oja, he apparently resurrected a poor guy that got run over by an oxcart here

La "Rio Oja"

Approaching Grañón

Our daily 2nd breakfast, outside Iglesia de San Juan Bautista, Grañón

Iglesia de Santa María, Belorado. The nests are enormous White Storks that joined us for dinner.

A little about our kind hosts in Belorado

Plaza Mayor in Belorado

Iglesia de San Pedro, Belorado's 2nd church about 25 paces from Santa Maria

The caves behind Santa Maria provided shelter for wandering pilgrims

There's a lot of cool street art here. Belorado is known for its high quality leather products