Kings Of León
- Dad
- May 22, 2018
- 2 min read
León was founded as a Roman military encampment in 29 BC, charged with protecting Galicean gold on its way to Rome. Over the next 900 years or so it changed hands many times (Visigoths, Muslims, and the like). In 856 it was conquered by Christian King Ordoño I, who's sepulchre has a prime spot in the mind blowing León' Cathedral.
I was excited to visit this jewel of Northern Spain, the last of four large cities we will walk through on our journey. In part because of its reputation, and definitely because I don't have to visit any dental clinics (Logrono) or have surgery (Burgos) this time.
With a very short trek from Mansilla to León ahead (17.9 km, 11.1 miles) we let ourselves sleep in a bit and hit the road after first breakfast at 9am. We were pleased to bump into our favorite fellow pilgrims, the Kiwi Grandma's, on our way out of town. Daily readers would have met them when we did, at the Pilgrim's Table back in Boadilla, and like many others they have wandered in and out of our lives since. Allison (who you'll recall is on her 7th Camino) and Linda are from New Zealand, and Cathy is a Brit who now lives in Normandy. They met in Los Arcos on the Camino a few years back and have become good friends. The morning walk to 2nd breakfast in Villarente was a treat talking with these healthy, courageous, hilarious ladies. I don't know that we'll see them again but they will remain the symbol of Camino spirit and camaraderie for me.
Leaving Villarente I read to Ben from the Camino bible about the little town being known back in the day for having the Camino's first ambulance, a donkey service to take sick pilgrims to León. The book went on to say the donkey ambulance was no longer in service. "They really didn't need to tell us that", I said to Ben, deftly grabbing my next chance to be completely wrong as you will see in the photos below.
Today was probably the hottest yet of our journey, but we were really cruising towards an early entry to León when we came upon the unwelcome "Camino Provisional". A short kilometer from Puente Castro, nearing entry to the city, we were redirected on hot blacktop about 3-4 kilometers away. The route rewarded us with stunning views of the city as we approached, with the Cantabrian Mountains behind.
The León' Cathedral, Santa Maria de León', is also known as The House of Light. This masterpiece of early Gothic architecture was built in the 13th century. It is not intricate or flashy inside, because the church has 1,800 square meters of stained glass dating between the 13th and 15th centuries. The House of Light let's these windows and the sun's effect inside be the star.
We also walked by Gaudi's "Casa Botines" on our way through town, with a subtle and almost unnoticeable statue of the architect sitting on a park bench out front, as if designing the building. In the evening we walked through Casco Antiguo (old town) to Plaza Mayor for dinner. We enjoyed our meal out in streets that will be totally alive in about two hours, at which time we will be totally asleep.
Buen Camino.
Thanks for the insight. But I thought for sure you were going to say Abba and Karen Carpenter. But maybe you are just saving those for the end.
Keep Rockin'....Keep Truckin' boys.
Greg - you can also tell from recent posts that we're getting to know more of our fellow pilgrims out here. We've found ourselves walking with new friends more and more, which is a joy and an incredible time passer.
Our general routine is to walk and talk through the morning. Every day seems to have an 8-10 km grinder at the end of the day, so that's when we duck into the earbuds and power through it. It hasn't rained much yet (that is forecast to change), that's the other time we go under hoods and into tunes. We have chill time every evening. First, body is so tired, your feet so sore, that walking around town isn't that enticing. Across the Meseta these past couple of weeks the towns can also be very tiny, not much to see. So we tend to chill to our own tunes in the evening, resting the bones.
Going into this, I had…
Steve - RE music - are you guys putting in headphones at all and listening to music or anything else...or are you strictly listening out for the occasional rude biker and chatting among yourselves? If you are listening to tunes...anything you are going back to again and again? Cheers,
We discussed the "if I knew then what I know now" question on our morning walk out of León. On the packing side, we agreed there's nothing we would do differently. We use almost everything we brought, and what little remains we need in case of emergency. All we could come up with were maybe two pair of casual socks each.
On the prep side it's easy, I'll be a broken record here, but the answer is the feet. I would've done two things differently. First, I would have spent considerable time shopping for trekking shoes and gotten input, even fitted, by an expert. Your feet are everything out here. My shoes, expensively purchased at REI, are too narrow…