Jour Douze Blues
- Dad
- May 14, 2018
- 3 min read
The 17.2 mile walk to Ages today would be our longest so far, and it had me awake last night. The route includes a steep climb up the Oca hills and I'll admit to being daunted by the challenge. Paul and Belmalyn prepared us a big home cooked breakfast which we enjoyed with our three French friends from Montpellier, Ben conversing and laughing with them while I just sat and smiled. After breakfast Paul gave us some needed advice for our accommodations down The Way. It sounds like things will become more crowded as lesser pilgrims than we start their journeys closer to Santiago.
It was cold and damp, threatening rain, and we had a tough 6-7 hours ahead. My pack felt heavy, my boots stiff, and by the time we reached Tosantos I was walking with a full pil-grimace. My mood had been lightened by an 18-wheeler bombing out of Belarado emblazoned with one word across the front: Jesus. Ben and I spent some time on our new Country Western hit "Jesus Was A Trucker" and lightened the walk.
After 7 1/2 miles we would hit Villafranca Montes de Oca, the last town before climbing the Oca hills into an 8 mile stretch with no services or ability for rest. The Oca hills were treacherous for pilgrims of the past, an ambush spot for thieves to prey on hapless travelers. One of Domingo's disciples, San Juan de Ortega, is credited with blazing the trail through thick pine and oak for the pilgrims. If I've learned one thing the past few days it's "No Domingo No Camino".
We had our second breakfast in Villafranca and I was dragging my feet to get going up those hills. Making matters worse, I lost my first toenail right then and there. I mentioned in Q&A several days ago that one has highs and lows on this journey, and you hope that your traveling partner's are opposite yours. I'd like to amend that for Ben and I. As is my nature, I have all of the highs and lows for us. As his nature, he is steady as a rock, and tough as nails. As we started up the hill he leaned over to me and said "I don't think this is going to be such a big deal". Boy did I need that.
He was right! The walk up into the forest was a great change of pace and scenery. It was good to be back in the trees. And did I mention they were pine trees? For days I had been anticipating returning to Hemingway's imagination once we got north of Segovia and Valladolid, specifically into pine forest. Pine needles are Robert Jordan's primary symbol of the beauty of Spain and his love for the country, in "For Whom The Bell Tolls". We meet Robert in them, he falls in love in them, and of course he dies in them. Spain will always be linked to Ernest Hemingway for me, and getting lost in Jordan's plight in "blowing the bridge" in hills like these made the day pass pleasantly. The theme was heightened at the top of the ascent where El Monumento de los Caidos (Monument To The Fallen) stands in memory of those lost in the Spanish Civil War.
We were pretty beat when we reached Ages, which has really nothing to offer beyond a huge dormitory sized room of bunks and a couple of tiny restaurants. This is a place to eat, sleep, and move on to more interesting places.
Which is what we'll do. Buen Camino.
Remember to share some of the highs and lows for Ben. Well done, Steve!
This statement "was walking with a full pil-grimace" made me laugh out loud, as I can almost picture what that would look like. However, when I then read about how you lost your toenail, I think I may have made my own grimace... that's not good with so many miles to go. I'm grateful for Ben's fortitude and his ability to have the insight to say something like "I don't think this is going to be such a big deal" to you, just when you needed to hear it.