Fiestas del Santo
- Dad
- May 12, 2018
- 2 min read
We were back to full days today, albeit a relatively easy 13.0 miles from Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. It was a little tough to leave Nájera through its red cliffs and vineyards. We knew we had a potential surprise waiting for us though, in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Our family loves authentic Spanish fiestas, and as luck would have it Ben and I were dropping in on one, and on Saturday night no less.
We were also expecting rain today, so the cool cloudy morning was welcome departing Nájera with Jacob's Ladders and hot air balloons about. The rain was visible ahead of us, and these two Seattle home-pilgrims were ready. When it arrived Ben got a welcome relief from my boring old stories. We ducked under our hoods and into our earbuds and started reeling in the walkers that had left before us. (Fist bump to Buen Camino subscribers Eman and Udi for their timely gift of AirPods.) I know it's the egoless Camino, but one can still come in first right?
Sure enough, we entered another tremendous Spanish village just as their fiesta was kicking in. This beautiful town is intimately tied to the Pilgrimage of St. James. Its founder, Domingo Garcia, devoted his life to the pilgrims and was a generally righteous dude. After being denied entry into two monasteries, around 1040, he became a hermit in the forest here. From that vantage point he could see the struggles of the pilgrims on St. James' Way. In addition to building a bridge to cross the Oja River, a hospital, and the first church here, he's credited for quite a few miracles.
The cathedral here now, which houses his mausoleum, is spectacular. A unique element is the stone, polychrome and gothic Henhouse in front of Santo Domingo's mausoleum. It holds a live hen and rooster, said to be descendants from the stars of Domingo's most famous miracle, a story so preposterous that I can't bring myself to tell it. You can read about it here:
http://english.catedralsantodomingo.es/santo_domingo.html
An excellent pilgrim's menu in town and walk around the festival ended our Day 10. Buen Camino.
“That boy is as alive as these two roast chickens we are about to eat,” .. wow, that was some miracle. I tried to find the piece of wood from the gallows hanging above the cage, but couldn't see it in your picture. Did you see that? And the painting that is supposed to be below it? The architecture of that church is stunning, thanks for sharing those photos.
I'm so glad that you and Ben stumbled upon that festival and if I know you that definitely put an extra spring in your step as you entered into you resting place for the evening. Buen Camino indeed!
Loved all the pictures and history (miracles are something, right?) of your blog today. Steve, I think Ben probably loves your stories. These will stories he'll repeat in 40 years !
Ben, anxious for you to get home !! Are the Turkey Vultures still following your Dad ?!