Cruz Ferro
- Dad
- May 27, 2018
- 3 min read
For the first time on this journey Ben and I were not the last pilgrims out of the albergue this morning. That award goes to the two hungover Spanish bikers who could be heard partying late into the night after Real Madrid’s Champion League Final victory over Liverpool.
Leaving Foncebadón with the rising sun, we still had a little climbing to do before descending the other side of Irago Pass. There was something up there we wanted to see. A marker at what once was considered the highest point on the Camino, although the real apex is now known to be another 5 ½ km along the pass at Peña de la Escorpia.
A couple of kilometers outside of Foncebadón there’s a tall wooden pole topped with an iron cross. Nobody is really sure how it got there. The popular belief is that the pole was erected by the ancient Celts as a way marker or possibly to measure snow level. After that Romans dedicated it to their god Mercury (my favorite, he’s the “protector of travelers”). Later, in the 9th century, the hermit Gaucelmo topped it with the iron cross and deemed it a Christian site.
For centuries now, Camino pilgrims have brought a stone with them from home as a symbol of their burden, and placed it at the Cruz Ferro on their Way. Pilgrims claim to step more lightly toward Santiago after leaving the weight (literally and figuratively) of their burdens behind. We had some fun thinking about how that conversation between James and Jesus went: “Yeah Jesus, and in addition to walking all this way, I’ve convinced them to carry rocks in their packs too!”
Ben and I have been carrying stones from our beach back home to leave here. We’ve had plenty of time to think about the burdens to leave here too. I have to admit, I felt pretty good leaving Cruz Ferro. It didn’t hurt that we were catching Irago Pass on a spectacularly beautiful day.
A short walk later we arrived at Manjarin, a funky little throwback albergue run by an enigmatic guy named Tomás. Tomás considers himself a modern day Templar Knight, the last of his order. His albergue is, well, rustic to say the least. If we had more time we could’ve stopped in for tea with him (although I would have worried about what that tea is made from). I think Ben and I walked past Tomás’ little home just before the albergue, he might be the only Templar Knight with a Suburu and solar panels.
From there we enjoyed the most picturesque day of our Camino, and one the prettiest walks I’ve ever been on. The snow capped Cantabrians were out, the high country meadows bursting with purple and gold wildflowers (a perfect color palette for two UW pilgrims). Over 5,000’ for a good 10 km, we had the cloud layer below us for most of the morning. I wanted for Richard’s talent and camera up there to capture it, actually it would've been best of we just had Richard with us today.
Down the other side of the pass we went and into the clouds. It was a difficult descent to 2nd breakfast in the Maragato town of El Acebo where we had espressos and a sort of Maragato meat pie. After descending through the clouds, the rest of the day gave us a more gentle slope into the El Bierzo valley, through more villages and meadows.
We didn’t appreciate how large and historic Ponferrada is until we walked in. At almost 70,000 inhabitants, it’s the capital of El Bierzo. It follows the familiar history of everything else in this region. Settled by ancient Celts, then came the Romans (in this case a mining location, there are gold mines here that made UNESCO World Heritage status), then the Visigoths, then the Muslim invaders, then Christianity. In the case of Ponferrada it was the commissioning of a pilgrim bridge that drove a boomtown. We enjoyed the enormous 12th century Castillo de los Templarios (Templar Castle), although it was closed with short hours on Sunday. The casco antiguo (old town) here is really interesting with plazas and cobblestone connecting the Templar Castle to Iglesia de Santa Maria de la Encina.
Tomorrow we cross the valley floor, with the vineyards and bodegas of the Bierzo “Denominación de origen” (designation of origin), before our next ascent.
Buen Camino.
I thought you would catch the busker. He was playing simple open chords and singing in Spanish. I worked hard for the shot with just him in it, he’s my favorite part. I gave him a euro.
Great questions Brian & Pat. The only one I'd like to add is when you passed that street artist, what was he playing? And did you leave something behind for him in his case (hopefully not any burdens.)
I was thinking along the same line, same question - do you feel rushed. Or, anxiety about getting accommodations. I can see how pre-booking brings some relief. You’re doing a great job with the photos! One of my professors used to say, “Travel photos should aim to transport the viewer. Make them feel what it’s like to be there.” You’re succeeding! Keep on, keepin’ on!
Brian - I don’t think we feel rushed on a daily basis. We have a deadline to leave Santiago June 6, so we’re on a walking pace that every pilgrim out here sort of raises their eyebrows at.
I felt rushed early in the Camino, before wonderful Paul the albergue host in Belorado suggested I start reserving ahead, especially nearing Santiago. I did it a couple of days and it relieved so much stress and walking pressure for me. I didn’t realize that I was subconsciously pressing the pace to get to town before other walkers so we could have suitable accommodations. Many days ago I reserved ahead for the entire journey and it’s the best thing I’ve done …
Beautiful! Keep on trekking! You guys are amazing.