Astorga
- Dad
- May 25, 2018
- 3 min read
Rain had pushed back in the forecast until after 11am when we had 1st breakfast at our albergue in Hospital de Orbigo. With only 16.3 km (10.1 miles) to walk in the 2nd half of our split day to Astorga, we set out trying to beat the rain again.
The book was right, the landscape was changing today. There was still mudbrick in the buildings but also hills, colors, shrubs, and trees on our walk. We made it to 2nd breakfast in Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias quickly and were off to cross the 7.9 km (over an actual hill) to San Justo de la Vega for a rest and light lunch.
Atop the hill was the Crucero de Santo Toribio and a great view of beautiful Astorga and its Cathedral. At the bottom it was clear rain was imminent and we skipped our San Justo stop to keep moving towards shelter. Our Osage luck finally ran out at the far end of town. It really ran out, the skies opened up on us a short 3 km and change from Astorga. Fortunately we’re Pacific Northwest Osages, and as Buen Camino subscriber Brad Walker would say, “we’re not make of sugar”.
We’re excited to learn about the region ahead. The mysterious Maragato people that live in the hills around here and their unique architecture and cuisine. The Celtic influences that will start to permeate everything from here on into Galicia. All that will have to wait, because first we have charismatic little Astorga.
Astorga has all the charm and history of the larger cities we’ve walked through. A walled medieval Old City, a buzzing plaza mayor, a stunning cathedral, cobblestone streets of tapas and vino tintos. You get all of this without the industrial and suburban trek to get there.
We were drowned pilgrim rats when we shuffled into the marble foyer of the swanky Hotel Gaudi, directly across the street from the Astorga Cathedral and the Gaudi’s trippy cool Episcopal Palace (Palacio de Gaudi). After drying out we hit the cobblestone streets to have 1st dinner in Plaza Mayor. As with most of Spain, almost everything was closed from 1-4, so Astorga’s sights would need to wait.
We hit the Deportes Huracain (Sports Hurricane) right when it opened at 5pm to bolster our rain defenses for the next week. It looks like no Osage dance will protect us from the coming storms. From there we had to get a better look at Gaudi’s crazy palace.
Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi (1852 – 1926) was Catalan and as such he is associated with Barcelona, where most of his notable works reside. However, in the late 19th century he was commissioned for two projects outside of Barcelona. One was the Casa Botines that we saw in León. I didn’t recognize that building as Gaudi’s and found it rather plain. There’s no doubt when you see the Episcopal Palace here in Astorga who designed it.
The palace was built for Archbishop Juan Batista Grau Villespinos where he resided until his death, after which the building sat empty. Inside is as wild as the exterior, it felt like a palace for Willy Wonka. I think Antoni would have liked Pink Floyd. In the early 60’s the interior was turned into the current Museo de los Caminos. A Pilgrim museum, or as Ben called it “The Museum of Us”.
We did not go into the 15th century Astorga Cathedral. It’s an impressive church for a city this size. I liked the reddish hue in the structure, reminding me of the paths I walked to get here.
For anyone considering a visit to Spain and wanting to avoid the typical and touristy Madrid – Barcelona option, or specifically wanting to try Northern Spain, I highly recommend a León – Astorga trip. You will not be disappointed.
Into the hills tomorrow, the short walks are over. Buen Camino.
Spectacular arches in the palace. One of my favorite pictures so far, despite the finger in the corner. :) Were you trying to hide something from view?
Astorga looks like an incredible gem in northern Spain. And Gaudi's palace.. those arches and the way he chose to place those windows....who else did that in his time? No one, that is why it's so spectacular. Way to power through in the rain!
On the other hand, the Osage Black Gold Dance works every day of the year, so you could pay for shelter, or hire someone locally to carry an umbrella for you. But you have to have an Osage Nation Credit Card to do that. You stand in place and jiggle up and down while reaching into your back pocket for your wallet. It doesn't really matter if you sing anything or not.
Sorry, I forgot to tell you. The Osage Sun Dance does not work between May 23 and June 8 of every year because that is when Wa-kon-ta is on vacation in Arizona.